Making of Mini Mammoth

This entry is part 1 of 3 in the series Making of Mini Mammoth

Hi everyone. This is the first post in a series where I take this simple doodle of a cartoon mammoth:

…and turn him into a fully animated, super-flexible cartoony character rig in Maya!

I’ll be documenting the entire process from design and modelling to the creation of the entire rig. It won’t be a step-by-step tutorial, but it will show my entire thought process as I rig, mistakes and all. It might get messy, but I know I’ll learn a lot and hopefully you will too.

This isn’t the full “design”. That will come a bit later. Right now it is just a quick 3-inch doodle that I sketched while at work. I am choosing this funny little character for a few reasons, because it will be especially challenging in a few ways:

The Challenge

1. The challenge of small cartoony rigs is that there is lots of overlapping influence between the different body parts. Take a look at this image.

For example, the cavity of the mouth and the shape of the lips is going to overlap all the way down to his knees. So when he opens his mouth his legs are going to move! His head is so big in relation to his body that he is basically a walking face. When rigging a normal-sized human or creature, all the body parts are distinct and separate and it is easier to paint the influence. So I am going to have to very carefully consider how I do everything from the facial rig to the way the limbs bend the body.

2. I am going to design him so that he has a lot of exaggerated squash and stretch. His trunk will stretch, bulge and grab on to things. How will such a short little trunk grab things? We will see!

3. It will just be a lot of fun figuring out how to make this guy move in an appealing and believable way!

The End Result?

The end result will be an animated short, featuring “Mini Mammoth”. I am not sure yet if I am going to texture and render it, but we will see! Stay tuned!

Mini Mammoth Part 2: Sketching & 3D Sculpting

by Chris on January 23, 2012

This entry is part 2 of 3 in the series Making of Mini Mammoth

So now we are on to part 2 of the Making Of Mini Mammoth where I am documenting the entire process of designing a cartoony character rig. In this step, I am doing a bunch of sketching from photo references and sculpting a quick prototype 3D model to get even more ideas. We’re almost ready to start the actual modelling, but first…

Sketching Solves Problems

Design-based drawing is ultimately about solving problems, so quality isn’t at all important compared to just looking and observing the world.

Design sketches for Mini Mammoth

Design sketches for Mini Mammoth


I’m not the best draftsman, and they are definitely not going to dedicate an Art-Of book to me just yet, but it is a very important step to visually work out all the things we’ll have to pay attention to when we get to the character rigging stage. Drawing is also very important because it is fast. You can collect a lot of ideas in a short period of time and end up surprising yourself with ideas you would not have thought of if you had been tempted to jump straight into modelling.

Even when I am coding Python tools, I often find it very helpful to draw out my ideas first. I constantly keep a notebook full of notes and doodles beside me.

At this point, I’m just trying to get lots of ideas for shapes, style and proportions. This is one of the most fun steps because anything goes. I even spent some time drawing bears.

Some more design sketches for Mini Mammoth

Some more design sketches for Mini Mammoth

Design Considerations So Far:

  • The mammoth’s trunk is mostly drawn in an interesting S shape, but I want it to be completely flexible and stretchy, including doing a water-passing-through-a-hose effect. So ultimately, I’ll likely model it in a straight line. When making a rig, it is usually easier to bend straight geometry than it is to straighten bent geometry. This is true when modelling any body part that will need to bend a lot, like a trunk, tongue or tail.
  • In some of the drawings I noticed that the tusks will overlap with the mouth, and it will be an important part of how the mouth looks. The trunk and tusks will essentially be the upper lips.
  • I’ve learned that there are a wide variety of mammoth and elephant ears. I’ll need to decide how floppy and how big they will be.
  • The long tusks of a mammoth make a really beautiful curve. This will be an important part to get right.
  • I am imagining giving him a thick coat of fur. How will I do it? There a few ways I could do it. Geometry, Maya hair, separate pieces of geometry? A lot to think about.
  • Did you know that elephants have a 3rd eyelid membrane that slides sideways as they blink?

Building a Prototype Model in 3D-Coat

My original sketch wasn’t very detailed, and I wasn’t sure if the shapes I was drawing were even possible in 3D! So I started to model a prototype in 3D-Coat.

3D turntable of Mini Mammoth

A digital sculpt in 3D-Coat

I really like how it turned out! At this point, I am just playing with shapes in 3D. This is not a final model. A lot of details like the ears will still change a lot so I am not too worried about following the design so far. Its just a 3D doodle.

Digital voxel sculpting in 3D-Coat is a lot of fun! You are very free to push and pull your model and experiment. It feels as loose as drawing, the tools are very intuitive. You can even build an armature (The ‘Curves’ tool) or drop shapes in (The ‘Primitives’ tool) using spheres, squares and cylinders to build up a model very quickly.

Building an armature in 3D-Coat

Immediately, I began to see some interesting patterns emerge:

  • The legs are almost perfect cylinders. I like this a lot. They will bend and stretch, but their default shape will be very simple.
  • The trunk makes some really cool undulating waves all the way up to the top of the head.
  • The eyebrows need more design work so they don’t look like Groucho Marx. (Though that could be fun too!) Right now he looks angry in a lot of the drawings, but he’ll have a wider range of expressions when I design the facial rigging.
  • I like how the foundation of Mini Mammoth is a simple egg shape. But I also started getting some interesting square shapes in the hindquarters. I will hint at real anatomy in the pelvis.

The Lessons

#1. Always use references.

I started out drawing a lot of sketches from my imagination, but the ones I sketched while looking at references of other animals were the ones that solved the most problems and made the design more clear in my mind. As I said earlier; drawing for design is a problem-solving process. At this point, it is not about creating art. The more I drew from references, the more I realized things that I would have to think about during the modelling and rigging stages.

#2. Don’t Limit Your Inspiration

I was looking at one of my drawings and it reminded me of a bear walking. So I studied a few pictures of bears. A bear has a big, lumbering walk with shorter legs than an elephant (just like Mini Mammoth.) So when I go to create a walk cycle, I’ll be largely inspired by bears. Mini Mammoth might look very small but he is going to walk with a big, heavy, camera-shaking gait!

Coming Up Next: I’ll finalize the design, make a couple of polished drawings, and then go back to 3D-Coat to start the actual modelling. After that, I’ll go through the auto re-topology of the model (an amazing feature of 3D-Coat which generates the polygon edge-loops) and create the texture UV’s for preparing the model to export into Maya.

Until then!

This entry is part 3 of 3 in the series Making of Mini Mammoth

Here is Part 3 of rigging Mini Mammoth. I’ve now got a finished model. This turned into a huge step, because I was learning a ton about modelling and topology in 3D-Coat, which turned into a 2-week long adventure of tutorials and manuals. I made a lot of mistakes as well which I’ll talk a little bit about. All in the spirit of learning!

This is the last post before I get into the actual character rigging.

First, I decided that I liked how the prototype model looked, so instead of starting from scratch, I began editing it. I started by carving out a mouth cavity and lowering the eyes.


The funny thing about this entire process was that after I finished tediously making a change, I found a feature in 3D-Coat that makes it fast and easy!

For example, to change the eye, I filled in the eye sockets, transformed the eye geometry down, and then using the Sphere tool, gouged a new hole for the eye sockets.. After that, I learned that you can create a low-resolution cache, make changes and then propagate those changes back to the high-resolution voxels. This lets you make big changes to the structure of your model without destroying the finer details. (Otherwise, if you just move things around, you’ll tend to get a mushy mess.) I could have done this and used the move tool to lower the eyes very quickly.

In fact, using the low-proxy cache is a good workflow for modelling non-linearly, because even after you have details, you can change proportions and posing. I’ve started doing this now, and it has loosened me up a lot. It is also far faster to edit, because it is lower resolution.

Another example, after I took all these screenshots with different angles, I found out that you can save camera angles. That would have been better for the comparison shots in the topology stages below. It would also be good for making animated gifs of time-lapse progress.

Next, I made a few changes to the nose and ears to make the edges look a bit more hard and defined. I also removed the tail and the eyebrows. (I’ll add those separately later.)

Mesh Retopology

I decided to call it done and moved on to the Retopo tool for creating my polygon topology. This was an exciting stage, because I wasn’t aware until a few months ago that tools like these existed. Modelling used to be a relatively tedious process, and now it feels very artistic in comparison. (I would also like to try ZBrush someday.)

The concept here is that you have your voxel model underneath, and you are adding polygons on top to the surface. So you can use the auto-tools or just draw polygons manually.

I did a few experiments and followed a couple of tutorials, but I was new to this. The best part about this tool is that it is iterative. You create a few “suggestion strokes” and then run the tool and see what you get as a result. If it is very messy, you just delete the polygons and run it again. (Or keep the polygons and stitch them together from various layers.)

Different patterns of suggestion strokes results in different mesh topology. Orange lines are closed loops, and green lines are directional indicators. The dark area indicates where you want more density. Eventually, I rested on the 3rd iteration below:

Now at first glance that might look pretty clean, but there are several 5-sided polys, triangles and a whole bunch of spiral edge-rings. The legs were especially problematic. So with the results as a starting point, there is some clean-up to do.

This is the stage where I wasted the most time!

At this point I wasn’t sure how many polys to use. In hindsight it turns out I was using too many, because it is very easy to sub-divide later. It made editing more cumbersome. I was sliding edges around one-by-one, deleting and merging polys and then hitting “Relax” to smooth out the results. When you hit “Relax”, sometimes things you don’t want to move will shift around and warp. So slowly, my edge-rings around the legs were drifting and getting crooked.

After a long tedious session of these types of edits (which by the way were a JOY compared to the old way I used to model years ago.) I found two powerful features that I had missed:

1. The “Brush” tool. How did I miss this!? It is brilliant. Using the brush tool, you can slide regions of vertices around. The beauty of it is that it stays adhered to the voxel surface below, so you can really get loose and messy. Hold down shift (as with most tools in 3D-Coat) and you can relax and smooth the vertices, again while sticking to the surface. This solved my drifting problem with the Relax tool and made the whole process 40X easier! (give or take a few X’s.)

2. You can delete polygons and use the Strokes tool manually. I thought the Strokes tool was only part of the Auto-Retopo tools. With that in mind, I deleted and rebuilt the eye region, to get a better round edge-loop structure on the face.

So yadda yadda yadda… I kept doing these edits, especially around the mouth and legs and now I have a finished body model with 6892 faces. There is still a weird portion on the inside of the leg where the polys are running a bit diagonally and might cause artifacting, but I am going to test in Maya before I bother spending too much time to fix it. We might never see it. All in all, I’m happy with everything I learned and I know I could model more characters even faster.

The Result:

Next Step: Export to Maya for Rigging

With a nice clean mesh, I think it will be possible to create some great squash-and-stretch cartoony effects. I’ll save the UV unwrapping for later. (This is another easy tool in 3D-Coat.) The next step is to begin doing some rig tests and prototyping. There is a chance I’ll have to make some changes.
- Will the geometry deform properly? (quick skinning tests)
- Should the trunk have been modelled straight? (I might still have to fix this.)
- Prototype a cylindrical auto foot-roll, which can roll in any direction.
- Model small details like tongue, tail, teeth and eyebrows. (and possibly some tufts of fur and other details.)
- Create some nicer, asymmetrical tusks.